Misstropolis

Thursday, July 31, 2008

Vineyard Heaven

by Alisa Neely

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In 1994 Kristina Lyons met her husband Patrick in what they now refer to as their first transcontinental date - he was in Boston, she was living in LA - on windswept Martha’s Vineyard. Since then Kristina has returned every summer, and the great love affair she started then with the island continues. As the mother of young children and the wife of the owner of the busiest nightclubs in Boston, Kristina has the inside angle on the best day and nighttime don’t-miss spots. And as the co-owner of the innovative clothing and jewelry company, Portobello Road, she knows where to head for knockout Vineyard style.

Misstropolis: First things first, what to pack?
Kristina: Rollerblades and bikes for the great network of trails in the national forest, sun dresses, flip flops, bathing suit (only if you want to - suits are optional on parts of Lucy Vincent and Aquinnah beaches,) sun screen and a good book.

Misstropolis: Best spots for coffee and an early breakfast?
Kristina: Black Dog in Vineyard Haven, the Plane View diner at the airport in Farm Neck, or the diner at the lighthouse in Aquinnah.

Misstropolis: Favorite beach for spending the day?
Kristina: There are so many opportunities for different experiences, but not all are available to the public. Many of the best beaches require beach keys or a town beach pass, like Lucy Vincent and Squibnocket in Chilmark, and Quansu in West Tisbury - a pristine strip of sand flanked on one side by the Atlantic and on the other by Tisbury Great Pond.

But there are great public beaches too, and many are known for their special features. Looking for a wide sandy beach with great surf? Try South Beach in Edgartown. Have little ones in tow? State Beach on the shore between Oak Bluffs and Edgartown is calm and easy to find. Philbin in Aquinnah is spectacular, and for sunsets and fishing with kids, Menemsha Beach is fantastic. Keep in mind though that Philbin charges for parking, and Menemsha parking gets competitive during peak hours.

But the best beach of all is ours along the Wequobsque Cliffs (the Vineyard’s answer to Big Sur) on the south shore in Chilmark, where you can cover yourself with clay from the natural pools and then body surf yourself clean.

Misstropolis: Everyone loves a beach picnic. Where is the best place to get sandwiches to go?
Kristina: Humphrey’s (now with locations in OB, Edgartown and Vineyard Haven).

Misstropolis: Best just-caught fish?
Kristina: Larsen’s in Menemsha and The Net Result in Vineyard Haven. 

Misstropolis: Most extensive farmer’s market?
Kristina: Morning Glory Farm on West Tisbury Rd. or the Farmer’s Market in Edgartown. It’s also fun to go pick your own blueberries at Murphy Blueberry Farm in Chilmark.

Misstropolis: Meet friends for cocktails?
Kristina: Ben Deforest’s new Balance in Oak Bluffs.

Misstropolis: We’ve heard wonderful things about the art…
Kristina:  On weekends check out the Arts and Crafts Show at the Old Agricultural Hall in West Tisbury. Ethrington, Kidder Smith and The Red Barn are significant galleries; but better than any of those is visiting local artists like Doug Kent, Kara Taylor or Allen Whiting in their studios right there on the island.

Misstropolis: And shopping? Where is the best place to find a summer outfit, jewelry and a few surprises? 
Kristina: Definitely Midnight Farm, my favorite store on the planet - they have everything and you’ll want it all.

Misstropolis: Who has the best swimwear?
Kristina: The Great Put On and Flora Bella in Edgartown, or Pandora’s Box in Menemsha.

Misstropolis: And the best hostess gifts?
Kristina: Rainy Day, or the Flea Market in Chilmark on summer Sundays.

Misstropolis: Romantic dinner… may never happen, but it’s always good to know!
Kristina: The Outermost Inn in Aquinnah, owned by James Taylor’s brother, Huey, is the most romantic spot for dinner. Try to book table at sunset.

Misstropolis: What do you do to escape?
Kristina: If you really want to get away from it all, take a kayak out on one of the ponds. It’s easy to leave the world behind, and know it will all be there for you when you are ready to return.