Misstropolis

Wednesday, October 03, 2007

Boston Chefs: The Book

by Andrea Pyenson

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It wasn’t that long ago that the dining scene in Boston wasn’t much of a scene. Boston was the land of the bean and the cod – with some Yankee pot roast thrown in for diversity. The country’s more sophisticated restaurant cities could – and did – justifiably look down their noses at our quaint little culinary backwater.

But that was before the 1980s. When Jasper White opened his eponymous restaurant on the Boston waterfront; Lydia Shire gave birth to Biba (now closed); and Chris Schlesinger launched East Coast Grill. A few years later Jody Adams opened Rialto, which is still going strong in Harvard Square. And Todd English opened the first Olive’s, in Charlestown, starting his steady march toward national celebrity chef status.

All of these pioneers are still at the pinnacle of the local dining scene, which has expanded exponentially. Many of the area’s next generation chefs – Michael Leviton of Lumiere, Tony Maws of Craigie Street Bistrot and Michael Schlow of Radius, Via Matta, Great Bay and Alta Strada – to name a few, have garnered national attention.

A brand new cookbook, “The Boston Chef’s Table,” celebrates the best of the Boston restaurant scene. Assembled by food writer and cookbook author Clara Silverstein (a frequent Misstropolis contributor), “The Boston Chef’s Table” includes recipes from 90 restaurants located within 10 miles of downtown Boston.

Silverstein spent a year collecting the recipes, watching how they were made, then making them herself and, when necessary, adapting them for the home cook. For each recipe in the book, she gives a lively description of the restaurant it comes from as well as the chef’s background, cooking philosophy and his or her take on the dish.

Boston’s culinary development is reflected in the creativity with which local ingredients are used. There are nine lobster recipes in the book. The most traditional sounding, a lobster roll, is Todd English’s version, with black truffles and truffle oil. Cranberries are highlighted in Ming Tsai’s cranberry lychee shortcake, as well as a cranberry pecan praline tart from Ruth-Anne Adams. But you’ll also find old-time classics including the Omni Parker House’s Boston Cream Pie (the official dessert of Massachusetts) and the Union Oyster House’s Boston Baked Beans.

The book has fun and interesting sidebars on local specialties such as New England cheeses, Macomber turnips and chowder; ethnic neighborhoods like the North End and Chinatown; and our very own Julia Child (even though she was born and died in California). There are also several pages of beautiful color photography.

“The Boston Chef’s Table” is a worthy addition to any cookbook collection – for what it says about the city and its culinary history. And for the more than 100 fabulous recipes that just might make a Boston chef out of you.

Apple-Curry Turkey Burger
Serves 4

1 tablespoon mustard seeds
3 tablespoons applesauce
1 tablespoon plain yogurt
2 tablespoons mango chutney
2 teaspoons curry powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 pound lean ground turkey breast
1/4 cup chopped scallions (1-2 scallions, white and green parts)
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
2-3 tablespoons peeled and freshly grated apple (preferably Granny Smith)
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
Lettuce and sliced tomatoes, for serving
4 bulkie rolls or other bread, for serving

1. Place the mustard seeds in medium skillet over low heat. Shake the skillet until the seeds begin to pop, about 2 minutes.
2. Transfer the seeds to a mixing bowl. Add the applesauce, yogurt, chutney, curry powder, salt and cayenne pepper. Stir to combine. Add the turkey, scallions, mint and apple. Mix together, but do not overmix. The consistency should be soft but manageable to shape into 4 patties, each 3/4-inch thick.
3. To cook the patties on a stove, spray a frying pan with nonstick vegetable oil or lightly brush the surface with oil. Place the patties inside and cook over medium heat. If using a grill, adjust the coals or gas to medium and spray each patty on both sides with the nonstick spray, or lightly brush with oil. By either method, cook thoroughly, about 5 minutes on each side.
4. Serve with lettuce and sliced tomatoes on a bulkie roll or bread of your choice.

Adapted from Deluxe Town Diner, in “The Boston Chef’s Table,” by Clara Silverstein

Double Chocolate Cookies
Makes 3 – 4 Dozen Cookies

According to Nicole Coady, executive pastry chef at Finale Desserterie & Bakery, who created these intensely chocolate morsels and has been serving them at the restaurant since it opened, the key to this recipe is to use the best chocolate you can find. Valrhona or Callebaut are good choices. The cookies are best eaten within 24 hours of baking them.

6 ounces bittersweet chocolate*
17 ounces semisweet chocolate**
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
6 eggs
2 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt

1. Melt the chocolate and butter together in a double boiler, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until blended.
2. In a separate bowl, using an electric mixer, whip the eggs, sugar and vanilla until light and thick.
3. In another bowl, sift the flour, baking powder and salt together.
4. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the chocolate mixture to the egg mixture. Slowly fold in the flour mixture. The cookie batter will be liquid. Let it sit for 3 hours in a cool place.
5. When you’re ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Make a doubled cookie sheet by placing one sheet inside another. Spray the top sheet lightly with nonstick cooking spray. Scoop heaping tablespoons of batter onto the cookie sheet at least 3 inches apart. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the center of the cookie is firm to the touch. The second and subsequent batches may need less baking time, as the doubled cookie sheet retains heat. Avoid overbaking – the cookies will become dry and powdery instead of moist and chewy. Cool on wire racks. Serve as close to baking time as possible.

* Bittersweet chocolate must contain at least 35 percent chocolate liquor.
** Semisweet chocolate can contain from 15 to 35 percent chocolate liquor.

Adapted from Nicole Coady, in “The Boston Chef’s Table,” by Clara Silverstein