Misstropolis

Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Dining en Plein Air

by Andrea Pyenson

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When I was very young and newly married, I spent a couple of years living in Atlanta. It was a difficult adjustment for me, a buttoned-up Bostonian. Everybody there was so friendly. On my first trip home for Thanksgiving, complete with snow, I figured out the source of the north-south cultural divide. Downtown one day, darting in and out of stores, my shoulders hunched against the wind, I realized why we New Englanders had the reputation we did. We were just too cold to be warm and friendly. At least for nine or 10 months of the year.

Welcome to the other three months. It’s time to bring the action outside. And by action I mean, among other things, food. Outdoor entertaining always seems to be less pressured and more casual than indoors. But just because you’re more relaxed doesn’t mean your deck or patio table should be any less beautiful – or less fun – than the one you would set in your dining room or kitchen.

At Tour de France, a treasure of a shop at 450 Harrison Avenue in Boston (617 426-2962), owner Sylvain Messe de Regnier has assembled a collection of magnificently crafted French tablecloths, place mats, napkins, plates, glasses, flatware, and other accessories that can be mixed and matched so your table will always look fabulous and never boring. According to Messe de Regnier, the idea of mixing and matching is “a French thing to do. Your great aunt, your mother, your auntie, your grandmother all give you stuff so you have all these vintage things and it’s so much fun. I love mixing vintage and modern,” he adds. In addition to all his table wares, Messe de Regnier sells bedding, French antique furniture, and “rare finds.”

For your outdoor table, the best place to start is with a Garnier-Thiebaut vinyl jacquard tablecloth, manufactured in Gerardmer, France, by the country’s oldest weaver. The vinyl is dipped onto the thread, so it doesn’t alter the aspect of the fabric. The tablecloths drape just like untreated fabric, and unlike those plastic-coated table covers we all remember, they won’t stick to anybody’s arms on hot summer days and nights. They are impervious to rain, sun – even snow. To clean them, just wipe with a damp sponge. (Messe de Regnier also carries Garnier-Thiebaut’s full line of cotton damask jacquard tablecloths.) A 70-inch round vinyl cloth is $169.

Building from there, Messe de Regnier has personally selected glass, porcelain, and flatware manufacturers in France to custom-make dishes, glasses, and flatware in colors that coordinate with those in the linens he carries. Glass plates and tumblers are made by Le Verre Francais, the country’s oldest manufacturer of glass objects. Plates are sturdy, dishwasher-safe, and reasonably priced, ranging from $5 to $8; glasses cost $5. The porcelain plates are made in Limoges, by the finest manufacturer in that city. The cereal bowl in the photo above is $28; the cup and saucer are $29; the mug is $19; the teapot, an antique reproduction is $28; the plates are $28 and $24.

Flatware is made by Sabre, a family-owned company just outside of Paris now in its third generation. Years ago the handles were made of bakelite. Today they are all plastic. “This is 2007,” Messe de Regnier says, explaining that bakelite used to crack and could not be put in the dishwasher. The Sabre knives, he adds, “are very good knives, not cutesy.” All the pieces come in a full palette of colors and designs, and Messe de Regnier encourages customers to take home a variety for everyday use as well as for entertaining. In addition to the knives ($20), forks ($14) and spoons ($12), Sabre makes napkin rings ($5), bottle openers ($16), cocktail forks ($14), and a host of other accessories.

A visit to Tour de France is the next best thing to a trip to France. So get down to Harrison Ave. Then go outside and have fun. While you still can.

Photos by Amy Braga