Wednesday, September 19, 2007
I Want My Ming TV - Part 2
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Last week Misstropolis introduced our two-part series on chef Ming Tsai’s cooking show, “Simply Ming,“ which just launched its fifth season on PBS. Part one is now in our archives. Here is the rest of Annie Copps’ behind-the-scenes visit to the show’s set.
All of the programs are broken into segments, or “acts.” Each act is carefully choreographed and Ming needs to be in just the right spot and know where all his ingredients are placed, so that when he goes to reach for salt, the salt is where it should be. Before the cameras roll, a small flotilla of neatly dressed kitchen staff appears on set from behind closed doors (which lead to a big prep kitchen). Raw ingredients in bowls, cups, plates, spoons and platters are placed on the counter. Cooked “swap out” pans are placed in the double wall oven. Denise Drower Swidey, the culinary producer, goes through each recipe (three or four per show) with Ming — all of the ingredients, the order in which they are used and the action required for each recipe. Ming goes though the motions and changes a plate here and there: “Guys can I get a small square white plate for this?”(A new plate arrives in under a minute.)
Next, Ming goes through each of the steps with the camera crew, so they can anticipate his next move and be there to capture it. While he is certainly well aware of maximizing time and “nailing” each segment, Ming likes to have fun, too, with over-exaggerated motions and a tease for this or that crew member. He knows that once the grip, a nice guy named Brendan, counts down and it really counts, making mistakes slows down the process. Ming rarely makes mistakes, but he insists that he does: “But I’ve been doing this a long time and we are really well prepared, so it’s never too bad,” he says.
By around 12:30, we’re on to show two, act three. The swarm of lights, cameras and people is humming. Ming is sautéing butterfish with lychees and black tea. It smells and looks heaven sent. Ming isn’t just cooking, he’s talking about the technique. “Guys, make sure the pan is the right temperature so that the fish will cook through and you don’t have to move it around too much.” He also offers information about the provenance and politics of this particular fish. “This butterfish is from Alaska and is abundant, a very ‘PC’ fish — we have to keep that in mind so that the oceans have enough fish for everyone.” The fish comes out of the pan onto the plate and that segment is done. Silently and without asking, Sonia, Ming’s make-up artist, wipes his brow and applies a dusting of make-up. Those lights are hot and sautéing fish for millions of dedicated viewers would make anyone break a sweat.
As Ming clips through the next few segments, all appears to be going well. Most of the food is cooked in real time, although occasionally there is a “dissolve” when he puts something in the oven and waits for it to finish cooking. The cameras wait until it is done and voila, Ming opens the oven and retrieves a beautiful finished dish. While going through a recipe, Ming stops and says out loud and out of context, “half cup chopped scallions.” He has an earpiece, and from the control booth his on-set producer ,Julia Harrison, (Ming is also a producer of this show) is following the recipe on paper. Ming forgot the scallions and she has let him know. Everything stops. Props and ingredients are put back in place and the action begins again from where the scallions go into the mix. Sonia jumps in for a quick retouch.
And so it goes. Act after act. Recipe after recipe, but Ming keeps his energy level steady. He’s tired, but he keeps the crew level’s energy steady, too. Even when his mother, Iris Tsai, a great cook in her own right, needles her son the chef, as only a mother could: “Yes, but yours aren’t cut very well.” It’s all part of Ming’s world, and Ming’s world is televised.
Cranberry-Hoisin-Chicken Rice
Serves 4
8 chicken thighs, skin on
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 bunches scallions, sliced, save 1/4 cup of green scallions for garnish
2 cups jasmin rice
1 cup red wine
1cup fresh cranberries
1/2 cup hoisin sauce
3 cups water
Canola or grapeseed oil for cooking
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees.
2. Place an oven-proof casserole with a tight lid over medium-high heat and coat very lightly with oil. Season the chicken thighs and heat until browned on all sides, then set aside.
3. In the casserole, sauté the garlic and scallions in the reserved oil. Add the rice and sauté for 3 to 5 minutes. Deglaze the rice with red wine and reduce the liquid by 3/4. Add the cranberries, hoisin and water and check for flavor.
4. Add the chicken back into the casserole, bring everything to a simmer, cover the casserole and transfer it to the oven for 20-30 minutes. Remove from oven and let rest for 10 minutes, then serve family style.
Adapted from Ming Tsai
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