Misstropolis

Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Rialto’s Rebirth

by Clara Silverstein

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After 12 years and national accolades at Rialto, chef Jody Adams took pride in her accomplishments, but also asked herself what her next career move might be. Her answer – the same thing, with more freshness and focus – became public last month when the restaurant reopened after a complete overhaul.

Adams is flying solo for the first time at Rialto, which she opened and then managed with Sapphire Group partners including Michela Larson. Pleased but wired from the stress of opening week, she says this is exactly where she wants to be right now. As if to underscore the theme of change, she cut her trademark long, upswept hair into bouncy layers, and sports a new chef’s coat with a stylish V-neck and orange trim around the collar and cuffs.

In figuring out how to reinvent a successful restaurant, she admits, “I’ve had to do all kinds of things I’ve never done.” Then again, she says, the timing was right after the partners agreed last fall to go in different directions. “It’s risky to take an established formula and change it. But if you make no changes at all, that’s an even greater risk, because nothing new ever happens.”

For Adams, who has a degree in anthropology from Brown University but became a chef soon after graduation, the decision about how to revamp the menu came down to one theme: Italian. “I have always been drawn to Italian food. I like the whole approach, the sensibility about wine, food, and friends,” says Adams, who grew up shopping in the Italian-dominated Federal Hill neighborhood of Providence, Rhode Island.

Her new menu tries to recapture the Italian spirit more than slavishly recreating authentic dishes. Fresh ingredients often come from New England. She tried to simplify dishes and reduce the portion sizes from the previous Rialto, making it more realistic for someone to order three courses without getting too full – or breaking the bank. Antipasto selections vary nightly, and are plated right at a service counter in the dining room. One of the pasta dishes combines two favorites – spaghetti and lobster – in a simple tomato sauce spiced with saffron and ginger. Loyal customers will appreciate the classics she kept on the menu, like soupe de poissons (Provencal fisherman’s soup) and slow-roasted Long Island duck. “They’d be storming the gates if I took all of those off,” she jokes.

Redecorating involved more decisions than the menu. “The old Rialto had become dark and dated,” she admits. Down came the awnings and up went gauzy, floor-to-ceiling curtains in shimmery shades from gold to white. With the help of architect Maryann Thompson, Adams brightened up the entry with white quartz on the floor and three potted cypress trees. Figuring out a way to “bring sexy back” to the bar, she lit a new onyx marble bartop from underneath, and used the curtains to section off seating areas. In the main dining room, sage-colored banquettes with curved backs sweep through like a sculpture. Bright orange Gerber daisies accent the bar and each table.

Adams says the décor, which includes the wait staff’s white and terra cotta-colored uniforms, now complements the food. “There aren’t too many things going on at once. The natural textures and colors weave together like each element on the plate.”

TINY GREEN GNOCCHI WITH SPRING VEGETABLES
RIALTO
Chef: Jody Adams
Serves 4 as an appetizer

GNOCCHI:
1 pound baking potatoes, scrubbed
1 pound fresh spinach, washed and trimmed of stems (baby spinach works well)
Salt, to taste
½ cup ricotta cheese
1 extra large egg, beaten
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup all purpose flour
¼ cup melted unsalted butter

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Roast the potatoes 1 hour, or until tender.  While the potatoes are still warm, cut them in half, scoop the potato out of the skin and push through a ricer or a sieve. If you wait until the potatoes are cool, they will be gummy.
2. Meanwhile, put the spinach into a large pot, sprinkle with salt, and cover. Cook over medium-high heat, in the water that clings to the leaves, until the spinach has wilted.  Drain in a colander, and when cool enough to handle, use your hands to squeeze all the water out of the spinach. (An easy way to do this is to press the spinach against the sides of the colander. Or put the spinach in a clean towel and wring out the towel). Chop the leaves as finely as possible with a knife—do not put in food processor or the spinach will become too wet.
3. In a large bowl, mix the spinach with the ricotta and egg.  Add the potato, 1/4 cup of the parmesan cheese, and season with salt and pepper.  Fold in the flour and then turn the mixture onto a floured counter and knead until smooth and slightly elastic, 1 to 2 minutes.
4. Roll the dough in a log about 1/2 inch in diameter. (You may need to divide the dough into 2-3 logs, depending on the length of your countertop). Cut the logs into 1/2-inch pieces.  Dust with flour so the gnocchi don’t stick together.  Form a depression in the center with your finger or roll the gnocchi with a fork to form a pattern.
5. Bring a large pot of water to a boil.  Season with salt.  Add the gnocchi and cook at a gentle boil until the gnocchi float to the top, 5 minutes or less. With a slotted spoon, scoop out the gnocchi and toss with melted butter and the remaining 1/4 cup of grated parmesan cheese.  Serve immediately with the spring vegetables.

SPRING VEGETABLES:
1/2 cup diagonally-cut asparagus
1/4 cup sliced scallions
3/4 cup fresh peas
1 cup chicken stock
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, mint, basil, chervil, or savory
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 ounces freshly shaved parmesan cheese

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Blanch the asparagus, scallions and peas. Drain, rinse with cold water, and set aside until ready to use.
2. Bring the chicken stock to a simmer and let it reduce by half.  Whisk in the butter, a little a time, until well incorporated. Add the blanched vegetables, herbs and lemon juice, and heat through. Season with salt and pepper.
3. To serve, place about 12 gnocchi in each serving bowl, cover with sauce and top with shaved cheese.

Recipe from “The Boston Chef’s Table,” by Clara Silverstein, coming in 2007 from Globe Pequot Press, http://www.globepequot.com

Photograph of Jody Adams courtesy of Carol Kaplan; photograph of Rialto courtesy of Peter Vanderwarker