Misstropolis

Wednesday, June 27, 2007

South End Buzz

by Clara Silverstein

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To distinguish the new Beehive from the bistros along Tremont Street in the South End, the owners went underground – literally.

They transformed the cellar under the Boston Center for the Arts Cyclorama into an urban lair of exposed pipes, brick walls and a live music stage edged with red velvet curtains. Modeled after La Ruche, a Paris bar frequented by ex-pats, The Beehive opened at the end of May with plenty of artsy ambiance. Though it feels like a hideaway, the throngs have already discovered the charms of a 300-seat place that is both casual and trendy. The two downstairs dining rooms practically define urban chic, with chandeliers, floorboards and tiles salvaged from construction sites. There’s nothing quite like it in the neighborhood.

Chef Adam Halberg’s menu keeps pace, offering an eclectic mix of snacks, small plates and entrees right up until 1 a.m. Most recently the chef de cuisine at Via Matta, Halberg is enjoying the chance to expand beyond Italian food with the inaugural Beehive menu. Working with operating partner Jack Bardy, who also owns Pho Republique, Halberg came up with simple dishes that have “notes of spice from here and there,” especially the Middle East. Overall, he wants to keep things simple. “The food is meant more to satisfy than impress,” he says.

One of the challenges, he says, is creating dishes that appeal to the varied needs of customers. “There’s a real mix. There might be five people at one table. One is doing appetizer-entrée-dessert. Two might just want drinks and snacks, and the others might be passing around a platter.”

Many people come in primarily for drinks and the nightly live music (bands tend to be an eclectic mix that features Berklee students as well as headline acts, and there is no cover charge). They like to order the playful bar snacks ($6 each) – a bunch of bacon, a jar of pickles or olive and parmesan flatbread. One of the featured cocktails is the Vesper, the original drink of James Bond, a potent mix of vodka, gin and white Lillet. Platters of salads or smoked meats, sausages and cheeses ($21 to $23) work well for large groups who want to share.

Working with the Italian tradition of fritto misto, Halberg created what he describes as a “hot salad” of asparagus, lemon wedges and feta – all fried until crispy and served over frisee salad with a lemony dressing. A related dish is the crispy cauliflower salad, served with basil and grapes. New England seafood traditionalists can’t go wrong with a bowl of clams and mussels in green garlic broth, with fries that manage to stay crispy on top of the steaming broth. These appetizer-sized plates range from $9 to $15.

Halberg uses the grill for shrimp with olives and hummus (see recipe below), and many of the entrees ($14 to $32), including a house-made beef burger and a walnut-mushroom veggie burger with yogurt and hot pepper sauce. Grilled chicken stuffed with halloumi cheese (from Cyprus) comes with a bread salad brightened with fresh mint leaves. This dish typifies Halberg’s approach to cooking: “I like to give some balance of textures and flavors. The grilled chicken, and bits and pieces in the salad, approach each other so everything goes together,” he says. A more classic dish that plays up Halberg’s Italian cooking background is the pappardelle with wild mushrooms and creamy ricotta.

The Beehive brings Halberg far from his roots in Miami, where he grew up and once worked as a reporter for the Miami Herald.  He also earned a degree in religion from Emory University in Atlanta (“Now I do soul food,” he jokes), and even led a marketing project for LEGO toys before returning “full force” to his lifelong love of food. He then attended the culinary program at the Art Institute of Atlanta, and worked at several Italian restaurants, including two in Florence.

Halberg barely has time to think of being a traveling chef these days, as The Beehive has proven an almost instant hit. Beehive partner Darryl Settles, founder of the Beantown Jazz Festival, and owner of Bob’s Southern Bistro, has a special interest in the music. The Beehive’s other partners are Jennifer Epstein and Bill Keravuori.

Halberg likes the chance to be in on the ground floor of a venture where food is not the sole attraction. “People can come in and never have anything to eat, and that’s fine. If you have the right product, and people enjoy the ambiance, it continues on from there.”

Sesame Grilled Shrimp with Hummus and Black Olives
Serves 4 as an appetizer

1 1/2 cups olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika
1 tablespoon Kosher salt, or to taste
1 teaspoon red chili flakes
6 ounces tahini sauce
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1 pound large (21/25 count) shrimp, peeled and cleaned
1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives
3 ounces sesame seeds
8 ounces prepared good-quality hummus (store-bought or homemade)

1. In a sauté pan, heat 1/2 cup of the olive oil. Add the garlic and sauté until golden. Let cool slightly and pour into a mixing bowl. Add the paprika, salt, chili flakes, tahini, lemon juice, and thyme.
2. Add the shrimp to the bowl and toss to coat thoroughly with the oil and spices. Cover the bowl, place in the refrigerator, and marinate at least 3 hours, preferably overnight.
3. Just before serving, puree the olives with the remaining cup of olive oil and set aside. Place the sesame seeds in a shallow dish.
4. Prepare a gas or charcoal grill. Grill the shrimp until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Roll each one in the sesame seeds until coated on all sides.
5. Place the hummus in the center of a serving dish and arrange the shrimp around it. Spoon some of the pureed olive oil over the top and serve immediately.

Photo of Adam Halberg by Michael Johnston, James Beard Foundation; Photo of The Beehive by Craig McCormack