Wednesday, January 06, 2010
The Rise and Return of Lambrusco
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While memories of the sickly sweet Riunite (on ice, as the unforgettable ads cheerfully suggested) that made it “famous” might cause some initial doubt (and cringing), Lambrusco is making a comeback. 80’s flashbacks aside, its latest incarnation is a highly welcome return.
Lambrusco wines are made from the eponymous grape and hail from a lesser explored region of Italy called Emilia-Romagna, better known for its Prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and balsamic vinegar.
As a recent article in the New York Times explains, “Real Lambrusco has as much to do with the candied industrial stuff as assembly-line Beaujolais Nouveau resembles good cru Morgon. While many variations exist on the Lambrusco theme, a good Lambrusco Secco is dry and fresh — frothy and almost purple in its classic version, yes, but full of tangy fruit and subtle, earthy flavors that are ideal on a summer night.”
Indeed, counter to the reputation that precedes it, classic Lambrusco finishes dry. Dry varieties will be labeled “Secco” and sweet “Amabile.“
Lambrusco is “frizzante,“ or semi-sparkling in style. Jammy, vibrant flavors of strawberry and flowers settle on a hint of rustic earth. The wines range from simple sippers to more complex and interesting finds in a wide range of color from pale pink to cherry cola red. However, good examples always have lively bubbles and refreshing acidity, making this wine remarkably food-friendly.
Since it perfectly complements pizza, and since it is not meant to age, opening a bottle of Lambrusco does not require an occasion. I predict a rise Lambrusco’s popularity similar to that experienced by its chic, in-demand cousin Prosecco, as long, that is, as Americans can get over Lambrusco’s less than serious stateside past.
Wine shop owners may be reluctant to stock the wine until the stigma is erased, so you may have to look harder than usual to spot these. Start your exploration with bottles from Medici Ermete and Ca’ De’ Medici, both well-known, top Lambrusco producers with a variety of offerings.
Anu Karwa is Founder and CEO of Swirl Events. Swirl Events offers customized, private in-home and corporate wine tastings with a fresh, hip spin. To learn more visit http://www.swirlevents.com.
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