Misstropolis

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Upscale New England Comfort Food

by Andrea Pyenson

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Scarlet Oak Tavern in Hingham just may have broken what appeared to be the curse of the building that houses it. The beautiful Colonial house, built for Daniel Whiton in 1766, has been home to four previous restaurants, all of which had their own problems. So last year locals greeted signs of the million-dollar renovation to the building, which had been vacant for two years, with skepticism.

Since the restaurant opened in June, all doubts have been replaced by a hopping bar scene, a full dining room and lots of private parties in the magnificently restored 260-seat venue with dining on two levels. Scarlet Oak is the second culinary venture for owners Jed and Joshua Webber, whose first restaurant, The Gibbet Hill Grill, is in a restored barn on a working Black Angus cattle farm in Groton. Prior to opening Gibbet Hill, the brothers had no restaurant experience. But they have taken to it like naturals.

“We wanted the building to add to the dining experience,” explains Josh Webber. “A restaurant in the suburbs has to be different than Boston,” he continues. He and his brother designed Scarlet Oak to be the kind of place where people could come for a special occasion or to have a burger and a drink while watching the Celtics game. With private dining rooms on the second floor, and a 14-seat “wine room” within the main dining room, the site is also popular for private parties and corporate events.

Webber describes the restaurant as a “steakhouse with upscale New England comfort food.” Chef de cuisine Brian Sway finds the steakhouse designation a bit limiting. Although the eight steak options together are the restaurant’s biggest sellers, he says, “customers are buying more fish than we thought they would.” He attributes that to the restaurant’s proximity to the ocean and Cape Cod, and to the quality of the seafood options. The potato-crusted haddock and pan-seared sea scallops are two menu favorites.

The bar area (which the restaurant calls the “tavern") seats 80 and has a substantial menu that takes advantage of the brick oven built into one end. To capitalize on Sway’s recent stint at Blue Ribbon Bar-B-Q in Newton, where he was executive chef, the Webbers also bought a smoker – in fact, they bought one of Blue Ribbon’s smokers.

Among the four pizzas offered, Lobster Bake, with generous helpings of Maine lobster, new potato, sweet corn and linguica, is a standout ($14). Other Tavern fare includes Kettle Beef Sliders ($9) and North Carolina Pulled Pork ($9) – both reflecting Sway’s influence – a Black Angus ($9.50) burger and a pressed Cuban sandwich ($10). The sandwiches and pulled pork come with irresistible house-made pickles.

In addition to the seafood options, dinner features eight different steaks, from six to 32 ounces ($17.50 for steak frites to $46 for a 32-ounce Porterhouse, all with a choice of two sides); chicken pot pie ($14.50); and slow-smoked spare ribs ($18). Sides, served family-style, range from traditional favorites like New England baked beans ($5.50), classic mac & cheese bake ($6) and corn bread stuffing made from the restaurant’s own cornbread ($4.50) to braised rainbow chard ($5.50) and asparagus gratin ($7). Starters include local oysters (market price), Prince Edward Island mussels ($9), Black Angus beef carpaccio ($12) and a selection of soups and salads ($4.50 to $13.50). On New Year’s Eve the restaurant will have a special menu featuring beef from the owners’ cattle farm in Groton.

Though there are some menu staples – the steaks and ribs, for example, never leave – Sway says the menu will change seasonally. Right now, with fires blazing in the restaurant’s numerous fireplaces, Scarlet Oak Tavern is a great place to chase winter’s chill.

Tomato Soup
Serves 4 – 6

This is one of Scarlett Oak Tavern’s most popular soups. It is a perfect companion to Vermont cheddar grilled cheese sandwiches. New England comfort food at its best!

1/2 white onion, peeled and diced
1 rib celery, washed & diced
1 medium carrot, peeled & diced
6 plum tomatoes, peeled & seeded
2 cups tomato juice
1/4 bunch parsley, washed and dried, chopped fine

1. In a sauce pot, sauté the onion, celery and carrot until soft.
2. Add the peeled tomatoes, tomato juice and parsley.
3. Bring the mixture to a boil and simmer until the vegetables have softened.
4. Puree the soup until almost smooth.
5. Season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Adapted from Scarlet Oak Tavern

Photos by Person + Killian Photography