I am sitting with chef Ming Tsai and his feng shui consultant Natalia Kaylin, at a corner table in Blue Ginger, Ming’s award-winning restaurant in Wellesley, MA. A waiter brings us a large bottle of sparkling water. Ming opens it and pours.

“I’m a rational guy,” says the much beloved, world famous chef. “I’m tactile in a way, but I believe in this stuff - I don’t have to be sold on it.”

Ming is talking about Feng Shui, the ancient Chinese practice of finding the flow of energy in an environment and the interconnectedness of life. People may know it as a way of figuring out where to put the couch, but spend five minutes with Ming and Natalia and you’ll realize that it’s not about decorating. Feng shui literally translates “wind and water,” the two fundamental forms of life energy. Part of ancient Chinese philosophy and metaphysics, it tries to understand the movement of energy in our environment. Among other things, feng shui uses positive ‘chi’ to improve chances for success - and Ming swears by it.

When you walk into Blue Ginger, you are surrounded by fountains, orchids, small decorations, and delicious aromas wafting from the open kitchen. It’s easy to feel calm and unharried here, and that’s entirely on purpose. Ming’s space feels like an escape. After a recent expansion (Blue Ginger debuted its new lounge, bar, and private dining rooms this past May) the restaurant fits seamlessly into Ming’s East-West world - thanks, in part, to his collaboration with Natalia.

They met two years ago, eleven years after Natalia left the Ukraine with her son, $1,000 in her wallet, and a Masters in physics on her resume. Now a feng shui consultant, she spent many years working as an electro-optical engineer. “And that’s what sold me on Natalia,” says Ming, who was an engineering major at Yale. “You picture a little Chinese man with the long beard - he’s going to be the best feng shui master. She completely has blown that out of proportion for me, because she’s a physicist.” Ming flashes his signature smile, “E=mc2, that’s what feng shui is; it’s energy.”

As Ming and Natalia give me a tour of Blue Ginger, Ming in his crisp white chef’s jacket, with leading-man poise, Natalia in casual comfort, they explain some of the basics. A toilet for example, should never be in the middle of a home, as it’ll flush away wealth. A front door should never line up with a back door, because that means money in, money out. When lying in bed, a person’s feet should never face the door - that’s what happens when you die.

Natalia points to the front of the restaurant and explains that it faces Southeast, which corresponds with wealth and the energy of the rising sun. As the sun rises, good chi rises, which in turn means rising fortune. “In some ways you are really lucky,” she says to Ming, “because many businesses in China struggle to have Southeastern front and Eastern door, and that is exactly what [you have] here.”

There is one aspect of Blue Ginger that is not so lucky, and it’s perched on a lovely piece of grass across the street. “Oh my God, a funeral home!” Ming remembers his mother saying ten years ago, when she and Ming’s father first visited the space he’d found for his restaurant. To combat the negative chi, Ming consulted his parents’ feng shui master in Taiwan, who suggested that he hang a Ba Gua talisman (a mask) on the wall facing the funeral home, to block negative energy. On the day Blue Ginger first opened, Ming also performed a clearing ceremony by running every single water source in the restaurant.

“I’ve only known my staff for maybe a week. I had them run dishwashers, sink, urinals, bathroom, locker room. I said, ‘okay guys, go!’ And I guarantee some of these guys were like, ‘who is this guy? He’s crazy. He had me flushing a urinal for five minutes.’”

But it worked. Over the past decade, Blue Ginger has become one of the most lauded and successful restaurants in greater Boston. The food is phenomenal (just try the sake-miso marinated butterfish) and everyone has taken notice. (For more on Blue Ginger, Ming, and his many awards, see http://www.Ming.com.) Yet as any good chef knows, the key to a winning restaurant is not just great food.

“I hate this from a chef’s point of view,” Ming says, “but it’s true: If [a guest has] mediocre food but fantastic service, he’ll probably come back, because he’ll probably remember how great the [ambiance and] service was.”

Ming doesn’t have to worry about this; he has Natalia. The newly renovated Blue Ginger is now teeming with designs inspired by feng shui. Details that seem merely decorative carry great meaning. There are fountains framed by octagonal designs, because water is good in the southeast and eight is a lucky number. There are flowerpots and orchids (for beauty), plus a bronze dragon perched on a shelf on the wall that you see when you first walk in. To balance the wood in the lounge, there is a decorative metal coin box.

Nearby, a curved hallway leads to the private dining rooms; curves are important in feng shui as they allow the easy flow of chi – the energy that connects people with their environment. But the long corridor also means that energy could move too quickly, so three alcoves gently divide the space. At the end of the hallway is the ladies room - the most pleasant I’ve seen in a long time. Natalia would probably tell me that’s because there’s a lot of metal in it, as the West needs metal.

Back in the lounge, Ming gestures to the windows overlooking the street. “Natalia suggested [I] do bamboo-edged glass,” he says, “which is great, but no we’re not gonna do that; it’s not an aesthetic thing, it’s a money thing. But you have—” He pauses, turns towards the wall behind us, and points to a potted bamboo plant. “Bamboo!  Which is not $50,000!”

After a blessing ceremony and a feng shui-chosen re-launch date, Ming debuted the newly renovated Blue Ginger to rave reviews. With all the fanfare about the food, and the beautiful crowds and staff, it’s easy to miss the changes Ming and Natalia made, but that’s almost the point.

“When you walk in, you don’t feel rushed,” Ming says. “We feel [Blue Ginger is] twice as good, because now the look of the space is to the level of the food and service.”

I ask Ming if he applies feng shui to food. “Ah,” he says, “interesting.” The answer, though, is no. “When I make a dish all I think about is how can I make this piece of salmon taste awesome this time of year. I want crunchy, I want smooth, I want spicy, I want sweet… a balance.”

“The key word is balance,” agrees Natalia. “That’s what we do with environment, and Ming does with food.”

“It only works if you believe,” Ming adds. “Not believe because your wife tells you to believe or your friends, your parents. You have to sincerely believe it and everyone in the core has to believe. Because it’s energy, and energy is 24-7.”

Ahh summer! Four months of excessive relaxation, flirty fun, and much deserved time off. But if you’re really human, you’re probably still over-tired, under-sexed, and under-vacationed. Whether you’re busy chauffeuring the kids between play dates or stuck in a stuffy office with nary a vacation day in sight, Misstropolis has the perfect fix. Call the babysitter, pack a small overnight bag (trust me, you might not need much clothing), and book an intimate night for two with some of the sexiest romance packages steaming up the windows at Boston-area hotels.

The Liberty Hotel
215 Charles St.; Boston, MA 02114; Reservations: 888-471-8734; Hotel: 857-233-0552; http://www.libertyhotel.com

Spice up your love life with dinner in The Clink - at the Liberty Hotel, that is. Easily one of the most unique renovations in town, the now regal and sleek hotel was once a jail that housed some of Boston’s most notorious criminals. Today, you won’t see any cons here, but the hotel does have an esteemed restaurant called the Clink (pun intended—part of the eatery’s décor still includes the original wrought-iron bars.) Be spontaneous and order The Key off the menu and unlock a night’s worth of fun.

Package includes: two Gran Patron Platinum cocktails with grapefruit, Creole Shrub rum and line; two oysters on the half-shell; a room key including: candlelit room, mood music set, Booty Parlor intimacy kit (2 condoms, vibrating couples ring, massage oil and lubricant) silk blinders, Chipotle chocolate bar, Moulton Brown toothbrush kits, late 1 p.m. checkout.
$500

Nine Zero
90 Tremont St.; Boston, MA 02108; Reservations: 866-906-9090; Hotel: 617-772-5800; http://www.ninezero.com

The Nine Zero sits unassumingly between the Boston Common and City Hall. But, like any Boston treasure, it’s what’s going on between the uniform, red-brown brick walls that make the place one of Boston’s premiere boutique hotels. Offering top-of-the-line accommodations like a complimentary overnight shoeshine, terrycloth robes, and in-room spa services, The Nine Zero functions with enough class to rival a luxury hotel, minus the snoot - They’re pet friendly! Slip away with your honey (and Sparky!) with the Nine Zero’s “INdulge” package.

Package includes: romantic overnight accommodations in a deluxe guestroom; white, milk, and dark chocolate covered strawberries; rose petals at turndown; your choice of champagne or exotic tea along with a drawn bath at turndown; music and candle presentation at turndown.
$339

Onyx
155 Portland St.; Boston, MA 02114; Reservations: 866-660-6699; Hotel: 617-557-9955; http://www.onyxhotel.com

Tourists, politicians, and CEOs alike pass by the Onyx hotel daily, as it is desirably located in the middle of historic downtown Boston. But no worries, this is one central location that won’t break your bank. Cozy up next to that someone in a deluxe room, decked out masterfully with warm gold, dazzling red, and a classy touch of brown - all for less than the price of the LCD TV in your room.

Package includes: one night stay in deluxe accommodations; complimentary bottle of champagne; flower petal turndown; hosted evening wine hour; complimentary use of off-site fitness facility; complimentary Wi-Fi internet.
$239

The Langham
250 Franklin St.; Boston, MA 02110; Reservations: 800-588-9141; Hotel: 617-451-1900; http://www.langhamhotels.com

If back rubs and meditation put you and your schnookums in the mood, try the Langham’s über-relaxing “Ultimate Escape.” The deal is heavy with relaxing accommodations for two, like a two-hour session of healing holistic treatments. With full access to Chuan Body + Soul facilities—the hotel’s in-house fitness and wellness center—you can sneak in some much needed massage therapy, exfoliate with a signature scrub, and take a dip in the lap pool.  Spend the day getting couples’ massages from the professionals and the night giving each other massages of your own.

Package includes: luxurious overnight accommodations; two hours of holistic treatment time in The Couple’s Suite; full use of Chuan Body + Soul facilities, including fitness studio and indoor lap swimming pool; 20% discount off all additional treatments.
$445
Ritz-Carlton
10 Avery St.; Boston, MA 02111; Reservations: 800-542-8680; Hotel: 617-574-7100; http://www.ritzcarlton.com

Not ready to say goodbye to the Fourth? Splurge a little and surprise your sweetie with the ritziest romance package in town. Take a breathtaking helicopter ride for two over the glimmering Boston skyline, enjoy a private, one-of-a-kind fireworks show from The Presidential Suite - your home for a night, and unwind with your leading man in the plushest of robes. Give the Ritz-Carlton one night to single-handedly create the most extensive and romantic getaway since your honeymoon with their dreamy “You Light Up My Life” package.

Package includes: limousine pick up and drop off (from home or airport); overnight luxury accommodations in The Presidential Suite with panoramic breathtaking views of your fireworks over the Boston skyline; personal butler for 24 hours; personal fireworks display by Bay Fireworks (approximately ten minutes) within direct view of your suite and set to your choice of musical CD; candlelight dinner for two en suite - meet with Executive Chef Clayton van Hooijdonk to customize your four-course dinner, including specially selected wines with each course; Dom Perignon and chocolate covered strawberries; private helicopter ride with round-trip limo service; embroidered Ritz-Carlton his/her plush robes; rose petal turn-down; in-suite American breakfast in bed.
$35,000.

Courtney Forrester is living the sweet life.

Men in suits. Families with strollers. Students with backpacks. They all file in to Sweet, a boutique cupcake shop in the Back Bay. Some stop in for a single perfect cupcake that they pop into their mouths before getting their change back. Others for boxes of four, six, eight or several dozen. Others, still, are making special orders for custom towers of cupcakes with monograms and filigreed edges, or perhaps a Red Sox or Celtics logo. The phone is ringing and Willie Wonka is playing on a flat screen television and owner Courtney Forrester is all smiles and impeccable style.

Most people know Courtney by face - when the party pics come out in the various Boston media outlets, nine times out of 10 Courtney is among the celebrities and philanthropists being covered. If she didn’t organize the event, she was certainly on the guest list - one would be hard pressed to find a more gracious host or guest for any event.

With nary a hair out of place, nor a dark circle marring her flawless complexion, after one week in business she says, “we’re still working out a few kinks. Everything is made from scratch, but we have a great team and the ingredients are the best.” If there are flaws in executive pastry chef Jennifer Warshaw’s vanilla, chocolate, carrot, lemon or cappuccino cupcakes, few are noticing. People just want more.

Cupcakes are certainly a trend, but Courtney opened Sweet, because of her own affection for these confections. “Whenever we entertained, I’d go in search of cupcakes - they’re such a great dessert. I found some that I liked, but most of the time I ended up experimenting with flavors and then decorating and making my own and, well, you know, guests would say ‘these are great - you should start a business.’ And sure, cupcakes are a trend right now, but people were eating and loving them before and they’ll love them down the road. Who doesn’t love a cupcake?”

She considered more than a few locations for her boutique with custom wallpaper in shades of cream and soft pinks. But in the end the Back Bay resident chose her own neighborhood. “I love seeing my neighbors here. We are doing a lot of birthday party business. The children and the parents are really having fun with them.”

While Courtney wants you to come to her shop, she’ll make sure you get her cupcakes even if you aren’t in her neck of the woods. “We started off with delivery service. If you are having 12 six-year-olds to your house for your child’s birthday party, I fully understand that picking up the cupcakes can be daunting,” she says. That goes for office parties, weddings, and moments of cupcake cravings, too.

Her first day, she sold out. “We didn’t make a big announcement, but I figured friends would come by. They did, but most of the people coming in and calling are new to me.” As Courtney speaks, three young women walk by the glass window past the shop; 30 seconds later they turn around and are in line. With an ear to ear grin, she notes, “that happens a lot.”

Sweet, 49 Massachusetts Ave., Boston, 617-247-CAKE. sweetcupcakes.com

Perhaps it’s only when you hit 30 that you realize - it doesn’t mean you’re old - only that you’re time-tested, proud and self-assured. Right?

Three Boston restaurants, each celebrating their 30th year in business illustrate this beautifully: Icarus the high-class perennial favorite; Harvest, the haute American classic; and Casablanca , the cozy neighborhood go-to spot, decorated with murals of its namesake film.

“We’ve never been the hippest, hottest, hotspot, but we’ve been real steady,” says Chris Douglass, a chef at Icarus since the restaurant opened and an owner for the last 20 years. “Food goes in and out of fashion, so we have to work to stay current while remaining true to ourselves - not just chasing fads.”

But it’s a thin line, says Sari Abuljubein, owner of Casablanca. “Establishments sometimes ignore the need to change as trends change.” In the early ’90s the Casablanca menu was updated from an eclectic mix of cuisine to a Mediterranean theme, which Abuljubein says, “has continued to be what people like to eat these days.”

For a sophisticated seasonal restaurant like Harvest, the over-arching style remains the same, but fresh talent - most recently in the person of award-winning chef Mary Dumont - injects vitality. “Food is something you want to believe in,” says Dumont. “If you keep changing, people don’t really believe in it. Restaurants that change their colors all the time don’t last.”

There was a time when it seemed that Casablanca might not last. In 2005, soaring Harvard Square rents, coupled with the allure of a career change had Abuljubein thinking of shutting the doors. “There was a lot of pressure on all parties to try and keep it going,” says Abuljubein. “It’s a darling of Harvard Square.”

According to Chris Douglass - who was drawn to Icarus when it was a foodie bastion in the as-yet-ungentrified, late-1970s South End - the gourmand population in Boston is ever growing. “Diners’ sophistication has really increased, so that raises the bar,” he says.

Dumont agrees. “People in the area are really jazzed up about food and having different menu items introduced.” When Dumont joined Harvest in August 2007, she spent time introducing the kitchen staff to her philosophy on cooking techniques (including on-site production of fresh pasta, gnocchi and cheeses). Then she rolled out menu changes. “The clientèle responded well,” she says. “Some pulled me aside and [told me they] were happy about the changes, so it’s been great.”

While buzzwords like “sustainability” and “farm-to-table” seem very of-the-moment, all three of these restaurants have long been dedicated to those ideals. Chris Douglass recalls that when he started at Icarus, he would ride his motorbike out to local farms and fill his saddlebags with fresh-picked goodies. “In those days the Icarus menu would change every day, depending on what we got,” says Douglass. “In growing season, I’d go out two or three times a week to a place in Weston called Land’s Sake, where it was pick-your-own vegetables.” (Read more about Land’s Sake here.)

Casablanca owner Sari Abuljubein realized long ago that a locally sourced Mediterranean menu would far outshine the late ’70s classics like spaghetti carbonara, and revamped his menu in the early 1990s. Since then he worked with Oldways, a non-profit “food issues think tank” to create and promote the Mediterranean Diet Pyramid.

Harvest has long championed partnerships with local farms and gardens. “Since the beginning, the restaurant has always taken its culinary tradition seriously,” says Dumont. “It was one of the first restaurants on the east coast to really do what we’re doing… No business can survive by supporting itself alone, you have to support the culture and the community around you.” Dumont sees this process as a circle. “People believe in you and what you’re doing. They know that you’ve created a sustainable business for yourself and the community.” In turn, they patronize the establishment, which sustains the business, which continues to sustain the diners and the community. It’s sustainability, but on a different level.

Staying dedicated to one aspiration for more than three decades isn’t easy. Douglass likens his 30 years spent stoking the fires of his beloved - and often demanding - restaurant business to a pair of golden handcuffs.

Abuljubein agrees. “We start off being married to the business but then we find out that we’re really indentured slaves,” he says. “But there’s always a love affair with it. It’s a lifestyle.”

The Restaurants:
Icarus - 3 Appleton St. Boston, MA. 617-426-1790.
Harvest- 44 Brattle St. (on the walkway) Cambridge, MA. 617-868-2255.
Casablanca- 40 Brattle St. Cambridge, MA. 617-876-0999.

Today, we know Persia as Iran, and when many Westerners think of this place, the current conflict likely comes immediately to mind. But executive chef Azita Bina-Seibel, who owns the restaurant with her brother, Babak Bina, have roots in Azerbaijan, just north of Iran. For centuries, Azerbaijan was a cultural and artistic center, and the Binas keep many of these traditions alive at Lala Rokh, both through their food and the distinctive art collection showcased here. “Art and food lend themselves to each other,” says Babak Bina. “We wanted to bring it all together.”

Step into Lala Rokh on a quaint Beacon Hill side street and enter the ancient world of Persia. The smells and aromas of another time and place will lure you, ancient art will cause you to wonder and a friendly staff will warm you.

Today, we know Persia as Iran, and when many Westerners think of this place, the current conflict likely comes immediately to mind. But executive chef Azita Bina-Seibel, who owns the restaurant with her brother, Babak Bina, have roots in Azerbaijan, just north of Iran. For centuries, Azerbaijan was a cultural and artistic center, and the Binas keep many of these traditions alive at Lala Rokh, both through their food and the distinctive art collection showcased here. “Art and food lend themselves to each other,” says Babak Bina. “We wanted to bring it all together.”

The walls in each of the restaurant’s four dining rooms are generally, but not strictly, dedicated to different parts of the collection. In one room are displayed numerous finely-wrought black ink drawings depicting regal looking Persian men dressed in finery, scenes from villages and towns, topographies and bucolic landscapes. These, explains Elmar Seibel, a noted collector and expert in Persian art (and Bina-Seibel’s husband), were all made by travelers, mostly European, from the 16th through the 19th centuries, and depict images of Persia as these adventurer artists saw them.

Around the corner are some of the oldest photographic prints ever taken in Persia. Late in the 19th century, the Persian ruler Naser od-Din visited Paris, where he became enamored with photography, which he brought back home. Black and white photographs capture fishermen, a spice market, two village girls and portraits of solemn looking men with black turbans wrapped high on their heads.

Also included in the collection are pieces of very rare 8th-century calligraphy. “Written” on thin sheets of animal hides, these religious writings from North Africa predate any Islamic writing available, explains Bina. Classic Persian miniatures from the 16th century and a series of 19th century still-lifes in the European tradition fill another room.

But the pièce de resistance of this collection is its newest acquisition: “Female Dancer,” a life-size oil painting on fabric from the 19th century Qajar Dynasty. Seibel calls the painting “charming,” and it is. Vibrantly colored and slightly risqué, the painting depicts a female figure - more an iconic representation than an actual portrait - dressed in a traditional festive costume with a beaded head dress.

The Europeans brought oil painting to Persia, and this example is representative of the Persian artists’ adoption of that style. Also, because these artists were more accustomed to painting miniatures, the scale and size of this paining is unique.

While gazing at the painting, smells from the kitchen will quickly lure you back to your table, where an array of flavors awaits. Bina-Seibel adapts recipes she learned from her mother and grandmother, both born in Azerbaijan, who in turn, learned from their mothers. “Historically, food is a feminine thing,” says Elmar Seibel. “This restaurant is very much a reflection of women and their history of this food.”

Begin with a sampling of mokhalafat, or appetizers and salads. A savory blend of stewed eggplant with minced beef is delicious, as is a paté of green olives - which lends a hearty zip to the dish - and walnuts. The brani-e-esjenjan, sautéed spinach with caramelized onions, and walnuts and homemade yogurt, gives a new dimension to comfort food.

Lala Rokh is certainly a good choice for a romantic date with someone special. Yet Persian food is, by tradition, meant to be shared, and the more people at table the better. Not only does a bigger group make for livelier conversation, but it also offers an opportunity to try more dishes. The staples of Persian cuisine are stewed and slow-cooked meats - beef, lamb, veal, as well as chicken - vegetables, rice, lentils and chickpeas. The distinctive, rich flavors and aromas emerge from the complex combination of spices such as sumac, and ingredients such as dried plums and juice from unripened grapes.

Fesenjan is a heady slow-cooked duck leg in a velvety rich and faintly sweet sauce of pomegranates and walnuts. Adass is a pleasant stew of veal and lentils made fragrant with caramelized onions, currants and dates. Ghormeh Sazbi features a boneless leg of lamb with the bright flavors of a mixture of red beans and dried lime and sautéed greens.

While one may be tempted to request a red wine to pair with the rich meats, a dry white, such as a Riesling from the Mosul region, is a better choice. The crisp sweetness cuts through the spices and pairs surprisingly but beautifully with the stews.

Desserts are light, and the smaller portions are the perfect tastes to close the meal. A mildly addictive saffron ice cream expertly balances sweet and savory, while a rosewater sorbet topped with sour cherries is delightfully refreshing.

Lala Rokh
97 Mt. Vernon Street, on Beacon Hill, Boston
617-720-5511
Reservations recommended
Valet parking available, on Charles Street
http://www.lalarokh.com

Step into Haley House Café and Bakery in Roxbury’s Dudley Square and step back a bit in time – not too far, maybe the late 1970s, but slightly updated. Put away your PDA, pour yourself a cup of richly brewed organic Love Buzz Equal Exchange Coffee, or choose from a variety of teas, order an enormous and delicious chocolate chip cookie, take a seat and chill out.

Haley House is not just a café, but a way of life. Art from the community covers the brick walls inside the seating area, while one whole wall is dedicated to educating guests about the environment, including this tidbit of information: “14 billion tons of trash is dumped into the oceans every year” and “One can takes 80 years to break down.” The wall also boasts the café’s composting and recycling efforts. Free Wi-Fi is available, as is an eclectic selection of books in a brightly painted bookcase. A sign that reads, “Welcome Friends” hangs above the ordering area. The atmosphere could not be more casual.

Almost all of the food here is made from scratch (some of the breads are sourced elsewhere, including Iggy’s) using recipes inspired by the diverse African American, Cape Verdean and Hispanic community surrounding the café. As many ingredients as possible are fresh, organic and locally grown.

Open for breakfast and lunch, the café’s menu changes regularly, but features mainly sandwiches, wraps, soups and salads. Thursdays feature different panini on house-made rosemary focaccia, and under Executive Chef Dave Andrews’ direction, there are daily specials: Tuesday is International Day; Wednesday features Summer Salads.

Plates of down-home offerings like turkey meatloaf or roasted turkey or chicken come with two sides, the choices of which may evoke such sweet nostalgia you will have trouble going back to work: macaroni and cheese, sweet potato mash and collard greens among them. Before you think otherwise, know that Haley House Café is committed to promoting healthy eating, so even these favorites are made to be low fat and lighter than their Southern counterparts. The sweet potato mash, for example, is just that: mashed sweet potato with a little butter and some spices; no heavy cream. The dressing on the Caesar salad is emulsified with tofu and made with whole grain mustard, making it healthier and lighter than traditional dressings. But it’s still delicious, even for the non-tofu eaters. “Food in its natural state is delicious enough,” says Andrews. For summer, he’ll be featuring small plate tapas like offerings for lunch and breakfast, so diners can have a variety of tastes in one meal.

If you are lucky enough to get a side of the House Healthy Slaw (see recipe, below) with your order, you’ll never go back to mayonnaise-drenched coleslaw again. Made with ginger and vinegar and super fresh red and Napa cabbages, this crisp salad’s bright, clean flavors are delightfully refreshing. Wash it all down with one of four house-brewed iced teas.

No matter when you go, do not bypass the baked goods. Under the direction of pastry chef Leslie Turock, the muffins, cookies and bars are “flavor through the roof,” she says. Turock is moving in the direction of making more items with whole grains and less sugar. A vegan blueberry cherry muffin is made with mashed bananas; a tender light pumpkin muffin is not cloyingly sweet, like so many are, and is topped with toasted pumpkin seeds. Get there early for the cornmeal-asiago-rosemary scone and do not pass up the strawberry rhubarb crisp topped with fresh whipped cream.

Haley House Bakery Café is one component of the entire effort that is Haley House, a nonprofit launched in 1966 in the South End to provide food and housing to homeless men in Boston. In the years since, it has grown and expanded, while still staying true to its original mission. From its main location on Dartmouth Street, Haley House serves 45,000 meals each year to homeless men and stocks a food pantry for the neighborhood’s needy elderly residents. It also offers 107 units of permanent, low-income housing. The 12-year-old Bakery Training Program at the Bakery Café is a rigorous six-month curriculum designed to prepare trainees to become professional bakers. At least 10 trainees graduate every year, 85 percent of whom have gained employment at hotels or restaurants in the area.

On Saturday, May 10, Haley House will host its third annual silent auction and wine tasting to benefit its efforts. The event will feature food from the Bakery Café, instrumental music and the chance to bid on a range of choice auction items, including gift certificates to Boston restaurants, a fall-foliage weekend, and jewelry by local artisans. The event is at the Haley House main office at the corner of Dartmouth and Montgomery streets in the South End, 4-7 pm.

Haley House Healthy Ginger Slaw
Serves 4 - 6

Dressing:
4-inch piece of fresh ginger
1/4 cup canola oil
2 tablespoons white sugar
1 cup white vinegar
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
Pepper or hot sauce to taste

1.  Wash the ginger well with a scrub brush and warm water, cutting off any knobby spots. Peel and chop into 1/2-inch pieces. Mince in a food processor.
2.  In a bowl, combine the minced ginger with the oil, sugar, vinegar, garlic, salt and pepper or hot sauce. Whisk until combined. This dressing keeps well for 4 weeks, refrigerated in an air-tight container

Slaw:
3 carrots, grated
1/2 head red cabbage, thinly sliced
1/2 head Napa or Chinese cabbage, thinly sliced
1/2 onion, thinly sliced or 6 scallions, chopped
1 cup slaw dressing

Combine the carrots, cabbages, onions or scallions and 1 cup of the dressing in a large bowl and toss well. This recipe will work with all kinds of veggies. Try chopped tomatoes, grated raw beets, raw green beans, raw chopped broccoli or cucumbers or more.

Recipe from Didi Emmons

Dbar is not a restaurant to be taken for granted, even if you live in its Savin Hill, Dorchester neighborhood. This is a “go-to” destination spot whether you live in town or the ‘burbs. The dbar kitchen has been under the competent, creative hands of 23-year-old executive chef Christopher Coombs since February, 2007. His carefully constructed menu, with no entrée over $19.00 and fabulous apps from $7-12, make this deceptively understated spot worth a trek during the week and worth the wait on a weekend. 

A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Coombs came to dbar with an already impressive resume that included apprenticeships at Blue Ginger under Ming Tsai and a job at The Inn at Little Washington in Virginia, working with the renowned Patrick O’Connell. Not bad for the kid who began scrubbing pots at a North Shore seafood restaurant at age 12 to pay for his baseball cards, and has loved the kitchen ever since.

Coombs started as dbar’s Sunday chef while he was working at Troquet, in the Theater District. For his Sunday stint he ran a lot of specials, did a lot of theme nights, had a lot of fun and loved that the place wasn’t stuffy or pretentious. He also impressed dbar owner, Brian Piccini, who had grander plans for the decent eats/great drinks/gay bar and part-time nightclub. Piccini convinced Coombs to become his executive chef, giving him carte blanche to do whatever he wanted, with two caveats: all entrées had to be under $19 and there had to be a really good hamburger on the menu (and it couldn’t be kobe or wagyu, either).

So Coombs began cultivating relationships, sourcing with high-end purveyors who could provide the kind of product he wanted to work with and convincing Specialty Foods and a savvy fish vendor that this kid next to Dunkin’ Donuts on Dot Ave. was dead serious about his food. Coombs also pulled out his CIA books and set up a tight inventory system that would allow him to prepare a high-end menu at a low price.

Dbar’s cuisine is New American but French-inspired. Coombs works hard to create balance on the plate – a kind of yin and yang using vegetables as his stars. He even grows some of them, and has an herb garden, around the periphery of the former pub’s roof.

One of the current appetizers is crispy skin duck confit served with mache lettuce with red wine and port-poached pear, candied walnuts, Fourme d’Ambert cheese and bacon-sherry-shallot vinaigrette. In the hands of a less savvy chef, this could have been overkill, and maybe the menu item is a little wordy with ingredients. But one taste dispels any doubt that this is over-layered or even silly. It is clean and well thought-out, and only the bones remain as we devour some of the best duck confit I’ve ever had.

Coombs’ forte is the use of a variety of seasonal vegetables. As my dining partner said of a simple grilled hanger steak dish with stellar sides, “The highlight of this dish for me was everything else! The spring garlic [scapes] were delicious, the succotash with fava beans remarkable. Who knew that pearl onions could be exciting? … And the potato croquette!”

The chef pairs impeccably prepared proteins – the steak, seared scallops, crispy skinned organic chicken, to name a few – with sauces that are all natural reductions. They provide the paint on the plate that helps create his balanced dishes but never appear to dress the main event.

Dbar also features some knockout desserts (grilled pineapple carpaccio with caramel sauce, house-made ice cream and a coconut cookie), a decent wine list and remarkably creative cocktails. Add Dorchester prices to this South End food, and the equation is perfect. The mixed crowd of local clientele – gay, lesbian, and straight – retirees from Milton, stylish urbanites and old Irish residents who years ago would never have stepped into a gay bar, and a hopping late-night scene that includes great sound and lights plus some clever theme nights – make dbar a one-of-a-kind spot. 

Though dbar will stay put, Piccini and Coombs have been looking for a different site and a new backdrop for their winning partnership to shine. They will have a following by then, as well as a new neighborhood to woo. But remember – Christopher Coombs is still one of the youngest Turks in town and a very bright star on the horizon. Hope that they land in your neighborhood.

Photo of dbar staff by Andy Ryan

“Sex and the City” turned cosmopolitans into the poster drink for gab fests among girlfriends; but what about pink gin, Martha Washington’s rum punch, and the Hanky Panky?

The members of Ladies United for the Preservation of the Endangered Cocktail (LUPEC) could tell you a thing or three about the history of drinks for dames. And there’s a lot more to talk about than frou-frou daiquiris.

The Boston chapter of what is billed as the “first and only female-oriented cocktail society” promotes the fun of the cocktail party of course, but also the history and customs among female drinkers. Now that retro cocktails are making a comeback and drink menus devised by “mixologists” have become almost as popular as the food that goes with them, LUPEC is making sure women don’t get lost in the crowd at the bar.

“A lot of us studied women’s history in college and don’t end up using it after we graduate,” says Misty Kalkofen, who started the Boston chapter last February and is also the bar manager at Green Street in Cambridge. “This gives us a chance to have a party themed around women’s history each month, instead of just going to a bar, drinking cosmos and talking about our lives.”

LUPEC held its most recent event, a Women’s History Month cocktail party featuring St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur at Toro in the South End. The menu for the evening used St. Germain in several cocktails, including the Gunpowder Gertie (mixed with spiced rum and fresh lime juice) and the Mil Besos (with cachaca, Prosecco, and fresh lemon juice). From a table in the center of the crowded room, members raised plenty of glasses, and also cheerfully handed out literature about the group to any men and women who were interested. Sales from their eight featured cocktails went to the Friends Boutique of Dana-Farber Cancer Institute, a shop for women coping with the physical side effects of cancer treatment. LUPEC is not just about imbibing; every event raises money and awareness for a cause.

Once a month, the 10 members also take turns hosting cocktail parties in their homes. Each one has a theme and drinks that fit into it. A New Orleans night was called “The Cradle of Cocktails and the Women Who Rocked It.” One of the favorites served that night was Ramos gin fizz, made with egg whites, gin, and orange flower water, all vigorously shaken for about 10 minutes. “It was a beautiful-tasting drink with the consistency of a cloud,” says Lauren Clark, a founding member of LUPEC and publisher of drinkboston.com.

Clark organized the “Drink, Dames and Classic Cinema” party after researching drinks named after movies and stars including Ginger Rogers. She decorated with still photos of actresses holding drinks. For Clark, a beer expert and former brewer, cruising the internet and libraries for cocktail resources is always part of the fun. “There’s so much lore about cocktails, even if their actual history is in dispute. Everyone in our group likes to learn about them.”

LUPEC fundraisers often generate tremendous results. In October, the group raised more than $10,000 for Jane Doe, Inc., the Massachusetts Coalition Against Sexual Assault and Domestic Violence, at a party held at the Boston Sailing Center in Cambridge. The event succeeded beyond what Kalkofen ever expected.

“It was amazing to see so many gracious donations and to be able to sell hundreds of dollars worth of raffle tickets. Then it’s rewarding to be able to turn to the charities and be able to hand them a lot of money,” she says.

An ongoing fundraiser for the Friends Boutique is sales of the group’s self-published “Little Black Book of Cocktails” ($15) at events or by emailing them at lupecboston@gmail.com. The members who contributed recipes each chose a signature cocktail, plus a few other favorites. High-contrast, black-and-white photos of the members in black dresses and pearls by local photographer Matt Demers give the book a nightclubby, retro look.

Clark found her signature drink, the Barbara West (see recipe below), in a book about forgotten cocktails by Ted Haigh. “Nobody can find out who Barbara West was, but I like this drink because it’s really dry and a good aperitif,” she says. Kalkofen chose the Hanky Panky, made by a female bartender at the American Bar in London, from the Savoy Cocktail Book.

Other recipes, historical anecdotes and news of upcoming events are posted on the group’s blog. One recent post relates the story of Texas Guinan, a pal of Mae West’s who owned New York speakeasies during Prohibition, and greeted customers, “Hello, sucker!” It includes a recipe for her cocktail – the Scoff Law. Though the next public LUPEC event is still being planned, the blog encourages female runners in the Boston Marathon with a recipe for the Aviation cocktail from Eastern Standard in Kenmore Square.

The Irma La Douce (a LUPEC Boston original)
Makes 1 drink

This drink is named after the movie “Irma La Douce,” which stars Shirley MacLaine as a Parisian prostitute who wears bright green stockings.

1 1/2 ounces Hendricks gin
1/2 ounce green Chartreuse
1/2 ounce cucumber puree (see note)
1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice
1/2 ounce fresh grapefruit juice
1/4 ounce simple syrup (see note)

Place all ingredients in a cocktail shaker and add ice. Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
Notes: Make cucumber puree by peeling a fresh cucumber. Pureeing it in a blender or food processor, then strain through a sieve.
Make simple syrup by mixing 2 parts sugar and 1 part water in a pot. Place over medium heat and gently cook (a bare simmer at most) until the sugar has completely dissolved, stirring occasionally. Cool completely before using.

English Channel (chosen by Misty Kalkofen)
Makes 1 drink

1 ounce Chartreuse
1/2 ounce Pimms No. 1
Champagne, as needed
Lemon twist, for garnish

Stir the Chartreuse and Pimms over ice and strain into a flute. Top with chilled Champagne and garnish with a lemon twist.

Barbara West (chosen by Lauren Clark)
Makes 1 drink

2 ounces dry gin
1 ounce sherry (preferably Amontillado)
1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice
Small dash Angostura bitters
Lemon twist, for garnish

Place all ingredients in a cocktail shaker and add ice. Shake and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.

Recipes from the LUPEC Boston “Little Black Book of Cocktails”

Photos (except Savoy Cocktail Book) by Matt Demers

We are all hip to eating seasonally and locally, and oysters express time and place more profoundly than any other ingredient I can think of. Just about all of the oysters from our local waters are crassostrea virginica — size, shape, texture and flavor are all determined by their provenance, not the species. (Belon, or European, flat oysters are commercially grown in New England, but they are the exception and even their flavor is affected by the waters they are harvested from.) If you love Wellfleets, and I do, it is because of the tides, salinity of the water, temperature of that water, and the algae in the bay. Island Creeks from Duxbury, Moonstones from Rhode Island, Glidden Points from Maine and Stoningtons from Connecticut — I love ‘em all and they proudly articulate their home turf, or surf as it were, in varying degrees of size, brininess, creaminess and even sweetness.

This time of year the waters are cold and my favorite bi-valve, like me, has hunkered down and fattened up, getting ready for a summer of amorous behavior and warmer water fun. And speaking of amour, oysters have long been touted as an aphrodisiac, and there may be some truth to it. As far back as the 1700’s, the great womanizer Giacomo Casanova consumed up to five dozen oysters a day to keep him “fit” for his many escapades. Oysters are naturally high in zinc, which certainly has an effect on progesterone levels, which can trigger the libido in both men and women. There is also much said about the shape and texture of oysters, which if nothing else could “lead to the mood.” Either way oysters are high in protein, full of nutrients and low in calories.

My preference is shucked and served raw with a bracing mignonette sauce, but whatever your preference, get yourself to an oyster bar and get slurping.

Where to Get Them

Atlantic Fish Company, 761 Boylston St., Boston, 617-267-4000
B & G Oysters, 550 Tremont Street, Boston, 617-423-0550
Eastern Standard, 500 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, 617-532-9100
Gaslight, 560 Harrison Ave., Boston, 617-422-0224
Great Bay, 500 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, 617-532-5300
KingFish Hall, 188 Faneuil Hall Market Pl., Boston, 617-523-8862
Legal SeaFoods, nearly three dozen locations on the Eastern Seaboard
Neptune Oyster, 63 Salem St., Boston, 617-742-3474
Summer Shack, locations in Boston, Cambridge, and Connecticut
Union Oyster House, 41 Unions St., Boston, 617-227-2750

Oysters with Mignonette Sauce
Serves 4 as an appetizer

3 tablespoons apple or champagne cider
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots
freshly ground or cracked black pepper to taste
12 freshly shucked oysters

In a small bowl, combine ingredients.  Spoon 1 to 2 teaspoons over freshly shucked oysters.

To shuck oysters:

1. Scrub the oysters well and rinse under cold water. Lay a thick kitchen towel on a frim surface. Place one oyster on top of towel, cup side down (the flatter side up). Place one hand on the oyster to keep it steady and flat. Insert an oyster knife into the “hinge” of the oyster (the “u” shaped place at the narrow end where the top and bottom shell meet).
2. Keeping the knife flat, push it into the oyster until the flat guard of the knife stops (you may have to use a slight rocking motion with the knife). Keep the oyster still and twist knife until the top shell “pops.” Remove the top shell by carefully scraping the oyster from it. Be careful to keep the liquid in the bottom shell and try not to cut the oyster meat. Discard the top shell.
3. Slide the knife under the exposed oyster meat to separate it from the bottom shell, again being careful not to lose the liquid or cut through the meat. Enjoy.

Misstropolis Night at the Sherborn Inn
Meet Executive Chef Brian Corbley
Friday, April 4 from 5:00 - 7:00pm

Misstropolis subscribers will have an opportunity to meet the Sherborn Inn’s executive chef, Brian Corbley, at a special wine and menu tasting at the Sherborn Out on Friday, April 4, from 5:00 - 7:00pm.

The Out is a quaint, high-end, wine, spirits and gourmet take-out shop located in the carriage house adjacent to the Inn. Executive chef Corbley will host an informal cooking demonstration along with a tasting of appropriate wines. This will be a great opportunity to explore new ideas for formal or casual entertaining; Brian will answer questions about culinary and wine combinations for all occasions.

There will also be a drawing to win a gift basket, valued at $50, filled with local cheese, gourmet crackers, rich chocolates and a bottle of wine.

The Out is stocked with over 500 domestic and international wines, top shelf spirits, micro-brewed local beers and non alcoholic beverages. Gourmet take-out selections range from entrees like ginger mango shrimp and marinated steak tips, to sides like garlic green beans and pesto tortellini, freshly made salads and sandwiches. You’ll also find a variety of select cheeses, hand-made chocolates and tarts, Stonewall Kitchen jams, jellies & jams, specialty teas and a colorful selection of hostess gifts.

The Sherborn Out is located at 33 North Main Street (Route 27) in Sherborn. We hope you can join Misstropolis and the Sherborn Out for this special event. For more information call 508-655-8445 or visit http://www.sherborninn.com.

All photographs Person + Killian Photography.

The new Persephone restaurant in the Achilles Project fashion boutique fits into a long history of cafés in retail stores, but its sensibility is more jazzy cocktails than tea sandwiches. That’s just the way co-owners Michael Krupp and Shaka Ramsay intended it.

“From conception, the Achilles Project was always envisioned to be a unique approach to traditional boutique retail,” says Krupp. “In our minds, the addition of the lounge and the restaurant was not simply a means to strengthen the retail, but rather a necessary piece to complete our overall concept. ”

Since their store focuses on limited edition designer apparel, they wanted a menu that could keep up. The entire space – a renovated warehouse with exposed brick walls, bare wood floors and clothes displayed in glass cubes – embodies urban chic. Intrigued by the concept, Michael Leviton signed on as the executive chef. Leviton, who continues as chef-owner at Lumière in West Newton, also welcomed the chance to branch out to the more urban Fort Point Channel neighborhood. He compares his use of specialty foods – locally grown and humanely raised, when possible – to a designer’s preference for quality materials.

“The fundamental, underlying aesthetic of the food and the clothes is one and the same,” says Leviton. “The idea of the food is simplicity with the best possible ingredients. The retail side is also doing the same thing with the best fabrics and designs.”

Gamely hobbling around on a foot he broke earlier this year while playing soccer, Leviton has spent the restaurant’s first weeks perfecting the menu. The small through extra-large portions reflect “how people are eating these days – they want to taste a lot of different things,” he says.

So far, customers seem partial to the oysters ($2.25 each), as well as the seared Stonington, Maine sea scallop with chestnut-celery root puree ($9), and the Chatham hooked cod with exotic mushrooms ($24). Meat-lovers can try the roasted Northeast Family Farms beef marrow bone with parsley and caper salad ($12) or the grilled skirt steak (also from Northeast Family Farms) with fries ($24). An extra large bone-in rib-eye steak goes for $68.

Leviton, who in 2000 was named one of America’s best new chefs by Food & Wine magazine, acknowledges that premium specialty ingredients like the beef can come at a high price. “It’s the same in the boutique when customers go for a well-made, perfectly fit pair of jeans that may cost $200 instead of a pair of Wranglers.”

Often, he notes, top quality food doesn’t need much tweaking. “I’m not trying to do anything flashy – I’m trying to highlight the flavors of the best ingredients I can find.”

The flash goes to the cocktails from Chris Graeff, beverage director for Persephone as well as Lumière. The bright colors and bold ingredients like jasmine tea and blueberry syrup extend the fashion theme to the bar. The drinks are also playful enough to stand up to the Wii games near the bar. “They are meant to amuse the palate at the beginning of the meal – not to go with the food the way wine does,” says Graeff, who also chooses the restaurant’s wines.

An immediate crowd-pleaser has been the translucent, celery green Gin & Jazz ($12), a refreshing mix of gin, dry vermouth, jasmine tea, cucumber and lime. The burgundy-hued Petal Punch ($12) improbably but lusciously pairs chamomile tea with tequila, peach and pomegranate liquors, and pomegranate juice. The cheekily titled Obligatory $15 Chowhound-Predicted Pomegranate Martini thumbs its nose at the jaded foodie bloggers, at only $9.

The Desperate Housewife ($12) is a good example of how Graeff developed the drinks for Persephone. It all started with a bottle of the specialty nigori sake. “It was so milky that nobody really enjoyed it on its own,” says Graeff, who tasted it with Leviton and Krupp. As they brainstormed about ways to “lighten it up,” Leviton brought out some blueberry syrup that he had made for a dessert. They mixed it in, shook it up and out came a bright purple mixture that looked something like a smoothie. “It just glowed – the color was off the charts,” says Graeff, who eventually added vodka, cranberry juice, ginger and lemon for a more balanced flavor, and now enjoys watching customers do a double-take when they see the bright purple concoction.

With the drinks go bar snacks, including a baked-to-order bacon and sea salt pretzel ($8), and Lucki 7 Farms pork ribs with a brown bean-hoisin barbecue sauce ($9).

The bar itself and a lounge furnished with leather hassocks divides the Achilles showroom from the Persephone dining room. Hours of shopping and dining only overlap from 4:30 to 7 p.m. After that, the retail cases are locked and rolled aside on specially-designed sliders to make way for customers awaiting tables. Dining tables on similar sliders make different seating configurations easy. Leviton hopes to set up an 18-seat communal chef’s table on Monday nights with a $45 prix fixe menu.

Krupp and Ramsay, both experienced in retail, have filled the store with top-of-the-line brands including Bing Bang, Maharishi, McQ and Rachel Roy. Official NBA jewelry designer Gabriel Urist also designs a custom line for the store.

“Like the great warrior Achilles, everyone has a weakness, and whether that weakness is clothes, art, food or drink, all can be indulged at the Achilles Project.,” says Krupp.

283 Summer St., Boston (Fort Point Channel), 617-423-2257

Petal Punch Cocktail
Serves 1

2 ounces tequila
1 ounce lemon chamomile tea (preferably MEM brand)
1 ounce orchid pomegranate liqueur
1 ounce Mathilde peach liqueur
Lime zest, to taste

Place all ingredients into a cocktail shaker. Add ice and shake. Strain into a glass. Garnish with a slice of lime.

Adapted from Chris Graeff

Seared Sea Scallops with Chestnut-Celery Root Puree,
Apple Cider Reduction and Candied Hazelnuts
Serves 4

3 1/4 cups apple cider
2 cups blanched and toasted hazelnuts
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly-ground black pepper, plus more to taste
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste
1 ounce simple syrup (see note)
8 ounces peeled chestnuts (use already-peeled frozen or canned if fresh are not available)
8 ounces peeled celery root (also called celeriac), cut into 1-inch chunks
Heavy cream, as needed
12 sea scallops (about 12 ounces total)
Canola oil, as needed
1 tablespoon butter

1. Place the cider in a stainless steel or enamel sauce pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and continue simmering over medium heat until 1/2 cup of liquid remains. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and lightly oil the top.
3. Combine the hazelnuts with the simple syrup, salt and pepper. Place the nuts on the sheet pan in a single layer and bake until the simple syrup is almost dry, about 5 minutes. The nuts will feel a little soft and sticky when you remove them from the oven. They will harden and crisp up as they cool. If they don’t seem crispy enough, return them to the oven for another few minutes.
4. Place the celery root and chestnuts in a saucepan and cover with equal parts cream and water. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until very tender, about 30 minutes. Drain, reserving both the vegetables and the cooking liquid. Purée the vegetables in a blender or food processor, slowly adding the reserved liquid until you reach the desired consistency (it needs to hold its shape on a plate). Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Keep the purée warm in a double boiler.
5. Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat. Season the scallops with salt and pepper on both sides. When the pan begins to smoke, add about 1 tablespoon of canola oil and then the scallops. After about 30 seconds, carefully rotate the scallops about 90 degrees. This will give them a better, more even sear. Cook for another minute or so, until slightly darker than golden brown. Carefully flip the scallops and cook for another minute or two until they are evenly browned on the second side. Remove the pan from the heat. Add one tablespoon of butter and as it turns brown, quickly baste the scallops with the butter. Remove the scallops from the pan.
6. Place a heaping tablespoon of celery root purée in the center of each of four plates. Top each with three scallops. Drizzle a generous tablespoon of the cider reduction around the scallops and the purée. Garnish with a few hazelnuts.
Note: To make simple syrup, mix 2 parts sugar and 1 part water in a pot. Place over medium heat and gently cook (a bare simmer at most) until the sugar has completely dissolved. Cool completely before using.

Adapted from Michael Leviton

Photos by Maureen Ford Photography

"We weren’t trying to be cool. We’re just making what we like,” says Ellen ("Elli") Kaplansky, owner of Pie Bakery & Café, explaining the rationale behind her new venture in Newton Center. Kaplansky and executive pastry chef Paige Retus love pie and wanted to share their passion, fashioning dough-encased delicacies for breakfast, lunch, dinner and, of course, dessert.

“Almost every culture has something enclosed you could call a pie,” explains Retus, a Culinary Institute of America graduate and accomplished pastry chef whose experience includes several years with the Todd English empire and, most recently, at the Metropolitan Club in Chestnut Hill. Kaplansky graduated from the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts and worked for Retus at Figs in Chestnut Hill and the Metropolitan Club, and the two became friends. “Over the years, we chatted about ‘wouldn’t it be nice if…,’” Kaplansky says.

Two Thanksgivings ago, when the women and their families spent the holiday together, the idea came together over dessert – a selection of pies. “Everybody loves pie,” Kaplansky notes, but “there’s no place to go for just pie.” So the two friends set out to change that. “We didn’t want just a bake shop,” Retus adds. “We decided to make it a café. We wanted everything to be familiar, but our ‘best of.’”

The bakery-café serves savory, as well as sweet pies, along with sandwiches, soups, take-out dinner fare, and breakfast and dessert pastries. There is an open pastry kitchen, and Kaplansky says on weekends young children line up at the counter along the window, mesmerized by what’s happening on the other side.

Whole dessert pies are available daily ($22) or by special order ($25). People can also buy individual “Sweetie Pies” ($5.50) or a slice of pie ($3.95; $5.95 with ice cream). Signature offerings include roasted chicken and apple compote pastie ($5.95), a closed, hand-held pie inspired by the British tradition of baking a savory filling at one end and sweet at the other – a whole meal in a pie; Greek spinach and feta pie (($4.95) and egg pie ($5.50 per slice), which is Retus’ version of French quiche. There are 15 standard flavors of dessert pie (subject to seasonal availability), but Retus says her apple pies – each of which houses two-and-a-half to three pounds of apples – fly out the door.

Chef Ryan Costigan handles a lot of the savory items. Everything, from his soups to bread to the salad dressing and onion marmalade in the roast pork sandwich ($7.95), is made from scratch. On the sweet side, in addition to pie, there is a full array of breakfast pastries, from coffee cake ($2.50 per slice) to muffins ($1.95) to scones ($2.25); cookies, bars, biscotti, cakes and brownies. The Boston Cream Pie cupcake ($3.95) is pretty impressive.

Since the café opened, in late December, “the neighborhood has been very responsive. We hit a nerve that we didn’t know we were hitting,” Kaplansky notes. In the early morning (Pie opens at 7am weekdays; 8am Saturday and Sunday), many people stop by on their way to work. Mid-morning, mothers hang out together with their young children. The reduced fat bran muffins, morning buns and oatmeal, served with brown sugar and raisins on the side, have already earned groups of devotees. And more people than you might think eat pie for breakfast.

The dinner menu, intended for takeout, includes roasted chicken with spinach pie and mixed green salad ($15.95), meatloaf with a potato knish and mixed green salad ($14.95) and pot pie of the day ($6.95). People can eat there if they choose, but most of the evening business is for pie and coffee, the proprietor says.

“We’re learning with our guests and we’re eager to hear what our guests want,” she adds. So far, just about everybody seems to want a piece of the pie.

Irish Soda Bread
Makes 2 loaves

Paige Retus loves pie, but she is a full-service pastry chef. In honor of St. Patrick’s Day, which is just around the corner, she offers this recipe, based on one her mother used to make.

1 1/2 cups flour
1/2 cup oatmeal
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup (5 1/3 tablespoons) cold butter, cut into bits
1/2 cup currants
2 teaspoons caraway seeds
3/4 cup buttermilk

1. Heat the oven to 350o. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or silicone liner.
2. In a bowl, stir together the flour, oatmeal, baking powder, baking soda, sugar and salt.
3. Using a fork or pastry blender, cut in the butter.
4. Stir in the currants and caraway seeds.
5. Add the buttermilk and mix until just blended.
6. Transfer the dough to a floured board and knead with 12 strokes.
7. Cut into 2 portions and shape into rounds. Flatten each one slightly and cut an “x” halfway through the top.
8. Place the rounds on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 25 – 30 minutes.

Adapted from Paige Retus

Photos by Amy Braga

Dinner for Two is de rigeur for Valentine’s Day, though flowers, fine chocolates and diamonds don’t hurt. And there is no doubt that you can have a special VDay dinner at almost any restaurant in town. But it can be a night of angst, anticipation and sometimes anger. Chef Jasper White once said he was grateful to get out of fine dining just so he didn’t have to go through all the break-ups and problems of doing dinner on February 14th.

However, if you plan for an evening that has built-in amusement as well as a special dinner, the odds are in your favor the night will go smoothly, even as you make it into the final phase of a romantic evening. Restaurateurs have taken their creativity beyond their food and programmed fun and humor into the experience, which is a powerful aphrodisiac. There are also some great things to do for singles.

“We like Valentine’s Day,” says Chris Schlesinger, owner of the East Coast Grill & Raw Bar. Speaking for most restaurateurs, he admits, “We get deuced to death, but we welcome a night of revenue on a slow night.” But he also knows that his Inman Square spot is better known as a great first date place – because it’s noisy, crowded and has a less-serious ambience than many restaurants. So… the good food is not a problem, but how do you add romance to this spot? “We were thinking of using music ‘For Lovers Only’ as a theme,” but they took it a notch higher. Barry White music will be played all night.  Can you get any more in the mood than with a raw bar and this soundtrack?

Dante de Magistris, at dante in Cambridge, has created a sexy “Perfect Date” Valentine’s menu, with his delectable offerings listed under smooch, foreplay, climax, spooning, and bubble bath - a clever twist to frame inventive dishes like canoodling noodles, pillows and love bird with a picture of love.

Chef Steven Brand at Upstairs on the Square has created an extensive (and expensive, $185 per person with champagne) menu for the 14th. One of the owners, Mary-Catherine Deibel, admits, “We’re pretty romantic around here any time of the year, but for Valentine’s Day, we turn into every lover’s sweet dream. With our pink and gold harlequin walls and lavender banquettes in the Soiree Dining Room, and our raspberry aura in the Zebra Room on the park – as well as our four blazing fireplaces and long pink bar, we’re the place to spend February with your Valentine (or the place to be looking for a Valentine!).”

Wine Director Matt Reiser sent out a notice about Upstairs on the Square celebrating its 2nd Annual Saint Singles Day, on February 13th. These clever hosts know how to do it, and on Wednesday (aka Hump Day, which was a curiosity to me, but not my 17-year-old, who knows that any Wednesday is Hump Day, meaning the day in the middle of the week – or whatever you want to make of it) will host a party beginning at 9:30 pm costing only $13 per single ($14,000 per couple) that will celebrate the freedoms of singularity and what they’ve called “the ability to find mono-happiness without the tacky cards, flowers and chocolates.”

Certain locales just scream romantic. The Herb Lyceum in Groton might be a schlep from the city, but an antique-filled historic barn in the country, in the capable hands of chef Guida Ponte, doesn’t get any moodier (in the best way), and at only $65 per person allows you to splurge on the bubbly (it’s BYOB). You may want to book a room between Boston and Groton to break up the ride home. Top of the Hub Restaurant is an obvious choice because of the view, and at $250 per couple you will also get live music and dancing from 6-10 pm. And this may be the last Valentine’s Day at Frank McClelland’s L’Espalier while it is still housed in the 1880 Back Bay townhouse where he built his name and reputation for special occasion dinning.

For endless other options, go to bostonchefs.com.

Gnocchi photo courtesy of Restaurant Dante

My love affair with rosé Champagne began in the mid-80’s when, as a wine salesman at Bauer Wines on Newbury Street, I was treated to a limo ride around Boston with Robert Gourdin, self-proclaimed “U.S. Ambassador of Champagne” from Moet-Hennessy. He introduced me to a wine I will never forget, the ethereal Dom Ruinart Rosé Champagne. Its color, subtlety and elegance overwhelmed me and I went back to the store and promptly sold 10 cases to my best customers, who continued to thank me years later.

That’s what rosé Champagne can do to you. It draws you in with its enticing color; then it seduces you in with its intense berry flavors and remarkably long finish. Doesn’t that sound like the perfect libation for an intimate Valentine’s Day dinner party?

In case you haven’t noticed, pink is the ‘it’ color in the wine world these days. We’ve all gotten over our preconceived notions about pink wines being sickly sweet, and have discovered the joys of drinking fine rosés from all parts of the globe. While many dry rosés seem to shine during the warmer months, rosé Champagnes and sparkling wines have the body and complexity to work year round.

One of the great attributes of rosé Champagne is its ability to work with a wide variety of cuisines, from sushi to thai food to a light pasta dish or a rich wedge of triple crème cheese (like St. André or Explorateur) and some goose liver pate. The fruitier versions of pink sparklers make perfect accompaniments to any chocolate and berry dessert.

Rosé sparkling wines are divided into two categories: those made outside the province of Champagne (even outside of France), many of which are quite good and very affordable; and the more prestigious rosé Champagne, whose U.S. sales increased 47% last year. Rosé sparklers are made with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes, and because of the predominance of red grapes, they are usually a little bigger and richer than their blanc de blancs counterparts.

Here is a hit list of my favorite pink bubblies that can be found in the finer wine shops in the Greater Boston area. You may want to recreate my limo ride; it will make for a very romantic Valentine’s Day…

Castellar Cava Rose (Penedes, Spain), $10.99 – a perfect introduction to sparkling rosé, made predominantly from the Garnacha (Grenache) grape, bright and cheerful, with just a wisp of fruit. Nice aperitif, good with Spanish ham and manchego cheese.

Mionetto “Il” Rose (Veneto, Italy), $11.99 – Made by a prolific Prosecco producer, the “Il” is a blend of Cabernet and Merlot packaged very nicely. There is some vibrant fruit to it, and it works very well with a classic antipasti plate with salami and prosciutto.

Roederer Estate Rosé (Anderson Valley, California), $29.99 – Produced by the prestigious Champagne house of Louis Roederer in Northern California, this is as elegant as American rosé gets. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from a cool climate, there is the classic rosé touch of nuts and berries. Serve with oysters, Asian cuisine or smoked salmon.

Pierre Sparr Crémant D’Alsace Rosé (Alsace, France), $16.99 – Alsatian crémants are where the French bargains are, though they haven’t really caught on in the U.S. yet. The Sparr is 100% Pinot Noir, which gives this bubbly a distinct richness on the palate. It would pair well with a shrimp dish, or even a coq au vin.

Veuve Clicquot non-vintage Rosé Champagne, $64.99 – Madame Clicquot was the first vintner to introduce rosé Champagne to the world in the late 1700’s, and this non-vintage was introduced just a few years ago. In true Clicquot style, it’s a rich Champagne, with a vibrant pale pink color, and a long, lingering aftertaste. Great with a rich seafood mélange or a simple boiled lobster.

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé Champagne, $44.99 – Perennially one of the best values in rosé Champagne, there is a greater percentage of Pinot Noir in their cuvée. The color is deeper than most, with a richer, nuttier mouth feel. Try it with a baked ham or pork tenderloin.

Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé Champagne, $99.99 – A traditional blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, this is one of the most highly regarded rosé Champagnes in the world. The color is incredible, the aromas seductive and the flavors long, elegant and memorable. A truly sublime Champagne experience.

As nice as it felt to be able to walk around in early January wearing nothing heavier than a fleece vest, it was a little freaky. Ominous, even. Though born and bred in Massachusetts, I’ve always felt that snow belongs up in the mountains and off the city streets. But it is winter and we are in New England. Where nasty weather and the related inconvenience shape everything from our (dare I say surly?) dispositions to our well padded wardrobes to our hearty diets. So let’s look on the bright side.

While my son slept through his snow day on Monday (he’s making the most of his senior slump), I pulled out my soup pot. January is National Soup Month, after all, and I decided to seize the moment. 

For inspiration, I turned to the recently published “New England Soup Factory Cookbook,” written by Marjorie Druker, chef and co-owner of New England Soup Factory, and (Misstropolis contributor) Clara Silverstein. Druker, a Newton native who grew up dreaming of becoming a chef, says she never imagined she would own a soup restaurant. But she was “a kid who ate soup every day of my life,” so it makes sense that she is now an adult who makes soup every day and feeds it to others.

In the early 1990s, when her now 15-year-old daughter, Emily, was a baby, Druker was working as a private chef and caterer in Chestnut Hill. “Everyone asked for pots of soup,” the Johnson & Wales graduate recalls. At the same time, her parents, who lived in the area, frequently asked her to make soup that they could bring to their friends. “I thought, ‘I could make a business of this.’” In 1995 she and her husband, Paul, who also graduated from Johnson & Wales, opened their first New England Soup Factory, in Brookline. They opened their second location, in Newton, three years later. The restaurants have garnered four ‘Best of Boston’ awards from Boston magazine, earning a spot in the ‘Best of Boston’ Hall of Fame.

“I’m a person who loves flavors, but I don’t have a sweet tooth. I have a savory tooth,” Druker says. “I love colors, flavors, textures. Soup has it all – body and texture and flavor. Soup makes you feel so complete inside. You feel like you’ve eaten something that warms you inside and out.”

After serving soup to a colorful cross-section of hungry diners for 12 years, Druker can often predict what people will order as soon as they walk through the door. “Women, especially blondes” tend to like the Puree of Root Vegetable soup, which Druker says is “like putting a warm blanket on your palate.” Women also gravitate toward the Vegetarian White Bean Chili, while men and teenage boys want their chili with meat. Babies and redheads love carrot soup.

Druker is constantly dreaming up new flavor combinations. “In the winter I make a lot of hot and spicy soups,” (favored by men) she says. She recently made a Caribbean Chicken with Lime Zest that included coconut and habanero pepper. It was so hot, “it made you laugh. What better medicine is that?” asks the chef.

As a mother, she is particularly sensitive to creating soups that are both healthy for and appealing to children. She developed Sweet Potato, Chicken and Barley when Emily was young because she loved sweet potatoes so much. “This is a great way to get kids to eat something wholesome and nutritious,” Druker says. “You grate parsnips into it but kids won’t see them. What they don’t see they don’t know about, but their palates tell them it’s good. You have to be tricky.”

If you want to be ready to make soup whenever the mood strikes, Druker recommends having on hand carrots, onions and celery; fresh bulbs of garlic; a good variety of potatoes – she likes Yellow Finn, Yukon Gold and Garnet Yams, which she calls “the rubies of potatoes;” and a selection of dried beans, peas and lentils. For the best texture, Druker advises using dried, rather than canned beans because they will cook more fully and evenly and in half the time. She also says that using full-flavored stock and fresh spices will ensure the best flavor of your homey creation.

Whatever the winter has in store for us, it’s going to be soup weather for quite some time. So get out your bowls and enjoy.

Puree of Root Vegetable Soup
Makes 8 to 10 Servings

Even if you’re not a blonde (or a woman) you’re bound to love this sweet, rich, soothing puree. Druker tells a story of a customer who approached her in the restaurant one day after eating this soup to tell her, “You are the reason I started eating turnips!”

3 tablespoons butter
3 whole cloves garlic, peeled
1 large Spanish onion, peeled and diced
2 ribs celery, diced
4 carrots, peeled and sliced
4 parsnips, peeled and sliced
1 large turnip or rutabaga, peeled and cut into chunks
2 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
1 bulb celeriac, peeled and cut into chunks
12 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 cups light cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. In a stockpot, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, onion, celery, carrots and parsnips. Sauté for 5 to 8 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the turnip, sweet potatoes, celeriac and stock. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the vegetables are soft and tender, about 40 minutes.
2. Remove from heat and add the nutmeg. Puree the soup in the pot with a hand blender or working in batches in a regular blender until smooth. Add the cream. Season with salt and pepper. Stir to combine. If the soup seems too thick, adjust the texture with additional stock or water.

Adapted from “New England Soup Factory Cookbook” (Thomas Nelson, Inc., 2007)

Sweet Potato, Chicken and Barley Soup
Makes 12 Servings

Druker created this soup for her daughter, Emily, who has always loved sweet potatoes. She calls it “chicken soup on steroids.” Not only is it delicious – it is rich in complex carbohydrates, beta carotene and fiber. But don’t tell the kids…

3 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 Spanish onion, peeled and diced
2 ribs celery, diced
4 carrots, peeled and sliced
3 parsnips, peeled and grated
1 1/4 cups pearl barley
10 cups chicken stock
2 bay leaves
4 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
3 cups chopped, cooked chicken
1/2 bunch fresh dill, chopped
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Heat a stockpot over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. Add the garlic, onion, celery and carrots. Sauté for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the parsnips, barley, stock and bay leaves. Bring to a boil. Cover the pot and reduce the heat to medium. Simmer for 25 minutes.
2. Add the sweet potatoes and chicken and simmer for 20 minutes longer. Remove the bay leaves and discard. Remove from the heat and stir in the dill, vinegar, salt and pepper.

Adapted from “New England Soup Factory Cookbook” (Thomas Nelson, Inc., 2007)

Photos by Ron Manville